🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.