Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
